How to Purchase a Baby Parrot from Parrotcare

  1. The baby parrots are hand reared in a family environment
  2. All our baby parrots are cuddly tame and leave Parrotcare weaned onto a complete diet, which will ensure his nutritional requirements are met
  3. Our baby parrots are Harness trained, to enhance his life and yours. He can be taken for a walk in the garden or out to the shops
  4. A birth certificate.
  5. A copy of the booklet "Your Pet Parrot" which will provide you with guidance as your parrot progresses.
  6. A backup service should the need arise
  7. A future holiday home for your parrot.
  8. 1 free month's insurance with the option to take for the year.
  9. You can purchase a baby parrot by - Phoning for availability and making an appointment to view the babies or If it is not convenient to visit due to distance, we can send images via e-mail or photograph by post.

Pet Shop versus Parrot Breeder?
Most purchasers immediate contact with a baby parrot is generally via a Pet Shop. It is much more likely that your average baby parrot purchaser is going to come into contact with the local Pet Shop than the actual parrot breeder. In fact, the ideal place to purchase a baby parrot is via the breeder.

Often parrots in Pet Shops have been neglected over a period of time as staff are not able to find sufficient time to entertain what is an intelligent creature that has the potential intellect of a 4 year old child. This means that the parrot could have already developed behavioural problems prior to finding a home.

The question worth asking at this early stage is the method by which the parrot has been hand reared, was it via a syringe and tube or the spoon fed method? This may seem relatively trivial, but it is an important area where the young parrot has had greater contact with the hand rearer if food has been administered via a spoon. In addition to that the bird has had the opportunity to taste the food as it is consumed. Via the tube method food is injected directly into the crop and it is a method which we have never indulged in or found acceptable and having always adopted the method of hand rearing via a spoon. This is a much lengthier way of hand rearing a baby parrot, but ensures that human contact is regularly achieved. The Pet Shop will be unable to answer this question, but the breeder certainly will.

Selecting Your Parrot/Making The Right Decision
When selecting your baby parrot look for a bird that is active, alert, healthy and will engage you with eye contact. A hand reared baby parrot after a few minutes getting to know him should be able to step onto your hand without any danger of inflicting an injury from a bite. If he cannot do this, it means that the parrot has gained a slight mistrust for humans and maybe a little older than the post weaning stage. Don’t purchase your parrot until you are absolutely certain that he is compatible with you. You may hear “He will settle down in a few days once you get him home”. These are the words of someone who wants to sell the parrot and doesn’t really care if you and the parrot hit it off in the future.

Wing Clipping?
That leads onto the question as to whether the owner should clip the wings of a parrot thus ensuring that the parrot cannot fly around the house, or God forbid out the door and disappear. Your parrot will have no will to fly away but on occasions it does happen that parrots get out and are surprised by a sudden noise or movement and disappear over the roof tops. It can be quite difficult to retrieve your parrot as tame parrots can be picked up by anyone and there are unscrupulous people who will not hand the bird back. It is also easier to teach your parrot the disciplines of the house if he has clipped wings, but you will not have the enormous pleasure of a parrot flying from his cage onto your hand from some distance away. It is not advisable to clip your parrot’s wings until he has learned to fly. Some of the country’s leading Vetinerary Surgeons have found that during the fledging period (the age when a bird naturally leaves the nest) a bird’s body is still developing and as the bird learns to fly it develops the muscles of its heart and wings and the ability to breathe as a normal flying bird. Birds prevented from going through the nromal fledging stage are likely to have weaker hearts and wing muscles than properly flighted birds. This may remain the case for the rest of their lives and such birds may never be able to become fully fit and healthy. It is therefore a recommendation of PARROTCARE that wing clipping should become a thing of the past for all newly weaned birds. There are certain circum-stances where it is necessary to clip a bird’s wings, if you find that the bird flies from its cage and attacks either a stranger or a member of the family then this cannot be allowed to continue and the only way to avoid this in the future is to restrict the bird by lack of flight.

A relatively new innovation is the parrot harness. This is a commercially produced product and readily available. Harnesses come in several different sizes from the smallest Conures through to the largest Macaws. It is important to introduce your pet parrot to the harness at the earliest possible stage in its life. The preferred time is at the end of the hand rearing process when the bird will take naturally to wearing the harness. The basic reason for wearing the harness is to allow your pet parrot to accompany you on excursions into the garden or even farther outdoors. The principle is the same as a dog on a leash. The most important ingredient as far as the harness is concerned is the bird’s ability to accept it and also your parrot must be completely tame. If your parrot is not completely tame, forcing him to wear a harness will be extremely traumatic and could be positively dangerous if he panicked outdoors. The intention of a harness is not to secure your parrot to a perch in the garden and then leave him to his own devices. Your tame parrot should never be left outside unattended as this would be a recipe for disaster. Accidents could occur, or predators may cause serious injury to your bird without you being able to intervene.

What is a good diet?
The diet we feed at PARROTCARE consists of a good quality parrot mix with fruit and vegetables. The fruit consists of apples, oranges, bananas, kiwi fruit and any other fruits that may be in season. Vegetables consists of brussels sprouts, carrots, cabbage, peas, beans soaked for 24 hours and any other vegetable in season. Parrots also enjoy berries such as hawthorn and rosehip, they will also find time to chew the attached branches. The parrot food, fruit and vegetables should be mixed together so that the juices from the fruit cause the mixture to be moist. It will then be possible to add any supplements which will ensure the health of your parrot. We find that the powder can be easily administered via addition to the mix. All parrots have a requirement for calcium. There are a now a number of premium brands produced in liquid form that can be added to the drinking water to the prescribed levels. In addition to the aforementioned mixture, pellet diets are now readily available. Pellets should be available throughout the day. Most parrots enjoy fruit and vegetables and seed mix in preference to pellets, but pellets contains the complete diet required for your parrot, although I believe a purely pellet diet would be extremely boring and would not provide sufficient mental stimulation on its own. The combination will provide a comprehensive diet on which he will thrive. We recently boarded a parrot while his owners were on holiday and he enjoyed nothing better than a small bowl of weak tea and half a slice of toast each morning. Obviously, this is something he had got used to and it would be extremely stressful if he had not been allowed to have this whilst in our home. Whilst this parrot enjoyed tea, it must be remembered that both tea and coffee contain caffeine which may have the effect of hyperactivity and cardiac problems in parrots if given in large quantities. Also creams, milks and butters in large quantities can cause digestive problems. do believe it is not unreasonable to give a very small bowl of weak tea and toast without wedges of butter. A highly toxic fruit which can cause rapid death in parrots is advocado. Often overlooked in a number of parrot journals but is worth stressing in regard to a hand reared bird who may be offered a piece by its owner. Rhubarb is excessively acidic and although often cooked can retain toxic properties. Aubergine or egg plant contains great levels of solonin causing digestive upsets in parrots and yet completely harmless to humans. Asparagus can also cause the same stomach upsets. Theobromin contained in chocolate can be toxic to your baby parrot and as we are all aware is almost addictive in humans. There are lots of good foods so stick to them and avoid those which would cause harm. Branches from trees such as lilac and laburnum must be avoided at all cost as they are poisonous.

Another useful food is tinned sweetcorn or corn on the cob. A particular favourite with our Eclectus, Amazons and Cockatoos. The occasional digestive biscuit is also relished. When you first obtain your pet parrot it is so easy to spoil him by having the bird out of the cage more often than he is in. Initially over the first few days this is the wrong thing to do. I often use the expression "More hands off and less hands on" as a way to describe what should happen when you first acquire your bird. Give him a chance to settle down and learn about his new environment before exposing him to the rigours of the family and the home. Routine is good, birds and animals prefer a routine life rather than sudden or dramatic changes.

Stop Boredom
Boredom is something that must be guarded against at all cost. The repercussions of a bored parrot can be feather plucking. Feather plucking is not only a major vice that can be stressful for the bird but also the owner as the parrot can become denuded and feather plucking on the breast is one of the major problems that can occur with boredom. Once this habit has set in, it is very difficult to break and therefore prevention again is better than cure, so plenty to do in terms of toys, ropes, fresh cut branches primarily from fruit trees should be continuously given to the bird for entertainment. It is better to overdo this aspect of keeping your bird than underdoing it. It goes without saying that cleanliness is of the utmost impor-tance. Food, water, cages and perches should be changed or cleaned daily. Thorough disinfec-tion of the cage on a regular weekly basis would be advisable. As humans we are lucky to be custodians of some of the most beautiful creatures in the world it is therefore incumbent on us to ensure that they remain mentally and physically healthy throughout their long lives.

Training Your Parrot
One often hears patience is a virtue. When it comes to training parrots, patience is a necessity. Repetition without boredom would be the best way to describe training. Remember we are talking about training and not taming. Your hand reared parrot will already be extremely tame if you have taken the precautions for buying outlined in the previous section. One of our friends owns a parrot called Angus who is approx. 2 years old. In his vocabulary he now boasts 58 separate phrases. A phrase for instance would be the first two or three lines of a nursery line. This gives you some exam-ple of what can be achieved with patience and effort. This bird is obviously exceptional and a credit to his owner.

It is important to maintain contact with your parrot even when you leave the room It is possible to do this by whistling tunes which builds up a rapport with a solitary bird. Amazingly, if you teach your parrot the entired whistled tune it will be possible for you to start with the first couple of lines and he will often finish it off. Now due to my friendís endeavours he is reaping the benefits of an extremely entertaining and amusing pet.

Toilet Training
One of the first things you need to teach him to do is to use his cage as the toilet and not the remainder of the house. This is much simpler to achieve than would first appear, particularly if your parrot is as described in the previous section as hand reared and just weaned. When parrots decide to deposit their droppings they tend to squat down and it becomes very obvious well in advance that your bird is about to do what nature intended. As soon as you notice you should immediately take your bird to his cage. Once he has deposited a dropping, take him out immediately and tell him what a good boy or girl he or she is. When this has been repeated on a number of occasions your parrot will actually fly back to his cage to do his droppings. He may indicate in some other way that he wishes to use the toilet. It is up to you to observe what this is and take the appropriate steps. A little effort on this particular area will save a lot of hard work cleaning up parrot droppings around the home.

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